A man with short new beard growth touches his jaw while sitting at a kitchen table.

Every man who's grown a beard knows the itchy phase. A few weeks in, the stubble stops looking deliberate, your face won't stop itching, and the razor on the side of the sink starts looking very reasonable. This is where most beards end. It's also the bit that usually passes, if you look after the skin underneath.

Whether you're growing one for good or just for Movember, here's what's going on and how to get through it.

Why a new beard itches

Sharp ends. Shaving leaves each hair with a stiff, cut end. As the hair grows out, that end can prickle the skin around it. It's one reason the itch is often at its worst early on and eases as the hair gets longer and softer.

Skin that's used to being bare. Skin that was shaved every day is suddenly covered. Sweat, wash and flakes that used to rinse straight off now sit among the hair.

Dry skin underneath. Many men stop using moisturiser once they stop shaving, and the skin underneath dries out at exactly the wrong time. Dry skin itches, and it sheds flakes that the new hair holds onto.

Scratching. It's hard not to. It also makes the skin rougher, which makes the itch worse.

What to do, stage by stage

Everyone's beard grows at its own pace, so treat these as rough stages rather than dates.

The stubble stage. For many men, this is the itchiest bit. Keep the skin moisturised: oil works well even on short hair, because there's nothing in the way of the skin. Wash with lukewarm water and a gentle wash, and pat dry. Don't scratch with your nails; if you must, press with your fingertips.

The short beard stage. The hair's long enough to start softening, and the itch often eases. This is when to build the routine you'll keep. Wash, rinse under the hair, then oil the skin while your beard's still slightly damp. The short-beard guide shows exactly how.

The awkward stage. Uneven lengths, the odd patch, hair going in odd directions. This is usually when men give up for reasons that have nothing to do with itching. A tidy-up of the neckline and cheeks makes a big difference to how it looks. Leave the length alone if you want it to grow.

The routine

Wash gently. Lukewarm water, a gentle wash, fingertips through to the skin, a proper rinse. Pat dry. Our guide to washing your beard covers it step by step.

Oil the skin. Druff Anti Dandruff Beard Oil moisturises the skin beneath your beard and conditions the hair on top. Best applied after a shower or a wash with warm water, while your skin and beard are still slightly damp. Warm the oil between your palms before applying. Warm the oil between your palms before applying. Use your fingertips to work it into the skin underneath, covering the whole beard area, then smooth what's left through the hair. Morning and evening. On a new beard, start with a small amount.

Brush once there's something to brush. When the hair's long enough, a Boar Beard Brush trains it in one direction and lifts loose flakes. Light strokes only.

Leave the scrub for later. Fresh stubble on newly shaved skin doesn't need extra scrubbing. Once the beard's settled in, the Beard Scrub Bar once or twice a week clears trapped flakes.

Small things that help

  • Turn the shower down a notch. Hot water dries out skin that's already adjusting.
  • Keep shower gel off your face. Use a gentle wash made for faces.
  • Change your pillowcase often. It's where your face spends a third of its time.
  • Keep your hands off it at your desk. Most scratching happens when you're thinking about something else.
  • Take a photo every week or so. Progress is hard to see in the mirror, and seeing it makes the itch easier to put up with.

Don't reach for the razor

Shaving it off gets rid of the itch for a day. Then you start again from the sharpest, itchiest stage. If you want a beard, the way out is through. Look after the skin, keep your hands off it, and give it time.

When it isn't just a new beard

Sore red bumps or spots, especially where hairs seem to be growing back into the skin, redness that spreads, or flakes that look greasy or yellowish aren't the usual new-beard itch. Stop using anything that stings.

If the itch carries on once your beard is established, read itchy beard: why it happens and what helps.

The short version

  • The first weeks are often the itchiest. It usually eases as the hair softens.
  • Keep the skin moisturised from day one.
  • Wash gently, pat dry, oil the skin while it's still slightly damp.
  • Press, don't scratch.
  • Tidy the edges, leave the length, and don't reach for the razor.

Further reading